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Stripping Wallpaper
Wallpaper removal is fairly easy, but quite messy. There
are two ways to remove it, aside from ripping it off the walls with your
bare hands. Don't laugh... I have seen wallpaper that would fall from
the walls with a sideways glance. However, if yours was that easy, you
would be practicing an icy stare instead of e-mailing me!
All kidding aside (never), if you can get under a corner of the paper,
try to tear it off dry. If it works, it will save you loads of work. In
some cases, everything but a small amount of paste residue will remain.
You can clean it off with some wallpaper stripper and a sponge. In other
cases, the facing (on vinyl papers, primarily) will come off and leave
a paper backing stuck on the wall. This backing will be easy to get off
with method 2.
METHOD 1: The first method is using a wallpaper steamer, a piece of equipment
that can be rented. It sends steam through a hose to a flat metal plate
similar to an iron. Pressing this plate on the wall forces steam into
the wallpaper, which softens the paper and paste. This allows you to strip
the paper with a wide putty knife.
This method harkens to the days of plaster walls, still in abundance
in older homes but a relative rarity in the last twenty or thirty years.
Unfortunately, aggressive steaming can damage paper-faced wallboards,
especially if the wallboard wasn't fully sealed prior to wallpapering.
In new construction, walls that are going to be papered are often not
primed with paint, but just coated with sizing. The sizing seals enough
to allow the wallpaper to stick, but offers little protection to the walls
otherwise. This leads us to Method 2...
METHOD 2: The second method involves the use of a chemical agent that
is added to hot water. This chemical is an enzyme that soaks into the
paper and dissolves the paste. It takes a little longer than the steamer,
but does a fine job and is less damaging to the walls. The trick is to
allow the chemical to do its work, and not to rush into scraping too soon.
The paper should be kept wet with the chemical until the paper is loose
enough to scrape off EASILY.
The wallpaper stripper is applied with a sprayer, either a hand-held
trigger spray type for very small jobs or a pump-type pressurized garden
sprayer for entire rooms. Cover the floors with plastic tarps under newspapers
to absorb the excess spray and collect the old paper. As waste accumulates,
throw away a few layers of newspaper and put additional paper on the tarps.
If the original paper is a non-porous vinyl, you may have to rip the
vinyl face from the wall before using either removal method, because neither
the steam nor the chemical stripper will easily penetrate the vinyl.
If the vinyl face in not easily pulled off, all is not lost! You can
make small perforations in the vinyl to allow the steam or chemical to
pass through. There are two ways to accomplish this neatly and with minimal
wall damage. The first is to use a commercial tool called a Paper Tiger.
Simply rolling the Paper Tiger over the wall causes a small roller with
pin-like protrusions to perforate the surface of the paper, leaving the
wall underneath undamaged.
A lower tech alternative is to use a moderately stiff wire brush. Simply
drag the brush across the surface of the wallpaper to scratch it. Just
don't get too carried away, or the marks will pass through to the wall
below, forcing you to do additional wall repair later.
After the paper is removed, you can remove small amounts of residual
paste using hot water and just about any wall washing detergent, or you
can use the wallpaper stripping chemical as a final wash. If there is
lots of paste left, though, you may need to respray the walls with the
chemical stripper to soften it. Then, use a scraper or putty knife to
remove the residual glue, followed by a final rinse with a sponge dipped
in the stripper.
If you are going to paper again, your prep is almost done. Just give
the walls a light sanding to remove any roughness and clean up all the
dust before beginning the wallpapering process.
If you are going to paint, prime the walls with one coat of a sealing/stain
killing oil-based primer. You may have to sand again after this prime
coat. The roughness is more paste being lifted by the primer. If you don't
sand it off and then coat with a latex paint, it will be difficult or
impossible for you to remove the roughness later!
After the primer is fully dry, you can sand it , clean up all the dust,
and then put one or two coats of any paint your heart desires
-Naturalhandyman.com
Recaulking Tubs and Showers
In a shower or tub enclosure, caulk is used to keep water from creeping
up under or around the tiles at joints... between tile and the tub or
shower pan, or on joints where walls meet. I have seen situations where
the two or three bottom rows of tiles were loosened by water which crept
up under the tiles from the bottom! The reason the caulk works is because
it is glue-like and flexible... characteristics necessary to seal a joint
between dissimilar materials, or a joint that has movement.
The Winning Strategy: Remove the old caulk, clean the surface meticulously
and THEN apply the new caulk.
The best way to keep your caulk in tip top shape is to apply it properly
in the first place. So, the first step in replacing caulk is getting all
the old caulk off. Though you can do a patch job that will last for a
brief period of time, a complete job gives the long lasting results.
Pre-clean the work area...
This is a vital step to a successful job. By pre-cleaning the area with
a good combination bathroom surface cleaner / soap scum remover before
removing the caulk, you will introduce less moisture around the tiles
than you would if you cleaned afterwards. After the old caulk is off,
the final cleaning will be done with alcohol... more on this later.
Remove the old caulk...
Try to determine the kind of caulk... it will help you to plan the removal!
Get a sharp knife and try to cut it. If it is very rubbery and somewhat
soft, it is most likely a pure silicone caulk. If it seems to be very
hard, then it is probably one of the latex caulks, such as Polyseamseal,
Phenoseal, or one of the hardware store brands.
If you have a silicone caulk, it can be removed with a sharp, single-edged
razor in a razor blade holder. Be very careful to keep the razor angled
low so that you don't scratch the tub or shower pan, especially if it
is a plastic or fiberglass. A utility knife can also be used to cut the
caulk from between the tiles and the tub if the razor can't quite get
it out, especially in deeper pockets and corners! Sometimes, if you have
a porcelain tub, little black lines will appear on the porcelain as you
scrape off the caulk, even though you know you didn't scratch the surface.
These marks usually come off with the alcohol wipe. If they don't, use
a little scouring powder or Soft Scrub... with a minimum of water.
If you are struggling with a latex caulk, a heat gun can be a helpful
tool. The heated air will soften the caulk to ease removal. Set at a low
temperature (under 300°, or your guns lowest setting), to protect
the surfaces and your hands. Keep the heat gun moving to prevent overheating
of any area... you want to heat and soften the caulk, not cremate it!
Work your way around the enclosure, softening the caulk first and then
using your tool to remove it. This strategy is unnecessary for silicone
caulks because they are softer and easier to remove.
Once the caulk is scraped off, the area should be thoroughly cleaned.
Wipe the joint down with denatured alcohol and allow it to dry for a few
minutes. The alcohol does a good job of cleaning off any remaining soap
scum, grease, or other nasties and yucks that may have crept under loose
caulk or you may have missed during precleaning. Use a vacuum to suck
out any bits of pieces of caulk that may be lurking under the edge of
the tile.
Unfortunately, the alcohol will not kill mildew. If the area was heavily
mildewed, you may want to spray it with a concentrated mildew killer after
the alcohol wipe. The alcohol cuts the soap scum better than most anything,
and gives the mildew killer a fighting chance to knock out any residual
mildew. Let it sit for a few minutes, then wipe off any residue with a
sponge, rinsing frequently in hot, clear water (no soap). Then, you can
use your heat gun to blow dry the area to be caulked if you are in a hurry,
or just wait overnight and proceed tomorrow!
It is always a judgment call whether or not to wait overnight before
recaulking the enclosure. If you are replacing the caulk because of leakage,
or if it was obviously falling off, you would be wise to put a small fan
or heater in the enclosure and let it dry out at least overnight.
If you are replacing the caulk for cosmetic reasons... the main one being
mildew... you may be able to recaulk immediately, as long as you are using
a latex caulk, and in your judgment there was no leaking into the wall.
Latex caulks will still adhere if surface is slightly moist. If you are
using silicone, then there is no debate... the enclosure must be dry as
a bone or the caulk will fail!.
If you have a recurring mildew problem... reappearance in a few months
or less... let the enclosure dry more thoroughly next time you caulk,
as long as a week in some cases.
Time to choose the new caulk...
If you are working with a completely ceramic enclosure, you can use either
the silicone or latex caulks. If you have a fiberglass tub with ceramic
tile walls, or a completely fiberglass sectional enclosure with caulked
joints, you may be better off using a 100% silicone product.
There is a product from a company called Phenoseal that is advertised
as mildew proof. Skeptic that I am, I tried the product in my own home
before inflicting it on customers. The stuff deserves high praise. It
does indeed stay mildew-free longer than any product I have ever used,
and under the most adverse conditions... my kids' bathroom!! I have used
it successfully in all types of enclosures, though you will have to use
a heat gun to remove it in a fiberglass enclosure, as mentioned earlier.
Because it is relatively soft, pure silicone caulk is the choice of manufacturers
of fiberglass enclosures. It is easy to work with and has good smoothing
qualities. However, the silicone leaves a slimy residue on your hands
that will not wash off with anything I've tried every solvent, soap, and
hand cleaner, and none work! Even the GE Silicon web site is silent on
this!! The only cure for the silicone greasies is that tried and true
cure of many of life's torments... time.
I am not a real fan of the so-called siliconized caulks. These are latex
caulks with a small amount of silicone processed into them. I just don't
see any advantage to them, advertising notwithstanding. Since silicone
is a product designed so things don't stick to it, how can mixing silicone
and latex improve the product, other than give the manufacturer a new
advertising angle? So, I do not routinely use these chameleon-like products.
Applying the new caulk...
This is the part of the project that separates the mice from the rats.
It's a sad truth that, no matter what pains you go through to prep the
enclosure, carefully pick the proper caulk, terminate the mildew... all
anyone is going to notice is your artistic application of the caulk!!
Having a caulk job look professional is a tall order, mostly because
there are few professionals at caulking. In new tile installations, joints
that should be caulked are grouted, only because it is a pain to leave
the horizontal and vertical seams grout-free for caulking.
Caulking is more of an art than a craft, a mixture of finesse and experience.
And every job turns out a little different... some better than others.
Even the type and texture of the tile can affect the quality of the job.
And using white caulk with colored grout is about as frustrating as you
can get!
However, don't loose heart! I can give you a few guidelines that may
help you do the best possible job:.
If you don't plan on making caulking a profession, you don't need to
use a caulking gun to do your enclosure. The small, plastic tubes of caulk
are usually adequate to do an entire enclosure vertical and horizontal
seams, along the shower doors, and along the outside floor and walls,
if necessary! Though I have become quite skilled with the guns, the fact
is that the tube is more easily controlled by the novice and pro alike!!
I use the gun myself because I use so much caulk that the large capacity
gun cartridges are more economical!
Don't cut too large an opening in the end of the tube... the larger the
opening, the more likely you are to overcaulk the joint. The trick to
neat caulking lies in not applying too much caulk to the joint. When you
smooth the joint, any excess caulk tends to slop all over the place. It's
not the end of the world, just makes getting a neat job all the more difficult.
You can always add a little more caulk in any spots that need a touch
more.
Forget about the ice cubes and special "smoothing" devices that
look like gynecological instruments! Raise up your hands and look at them...
you are seeing ten custom made tools for smoothing caulk! The technique
I use is simple:
For latex caulk, have a small bucket with a damp sponge nearby. The sponge
is to wipe off your fingers as they accumulate caulk, and also to keep
your finger "tools" moistened so they slide on the caulk without
sticking to it.
For pure silicone caulk, have a roll of paper towels handy as well as
a damp sponge. With the silicone, the towels are to wipe off any caulk
that may get on your hands (remember, the silicone is not water-washable),
and the sponge is to moisten your clean fingers for smoothing, as with
the latex caulk.
Do both vertical seams in a tiled enclosure first, then the back wall,
then both sides. The outside of the enclosure is done last. On a sectional
fiberglass enclosure, the pattern is the same.
Apply a bead, no more than ¼ inch wide right into one of the joints.
Remember... not too thick... you are going to have to get the feel of
this. Use a finger, moisten it with the damp sponge, and glide it along
the joint, pressing the caulk evenly into the joint . If you have applied
the right amount of caulk, the gap between the end of your finger and
the joint will smooth the caulk to a neat, even appearance.
If you overapplied the caulk, this is where things get messy! You will
have to try to remove the overage by using your finger and the sponge
to wipe it off. If you really overdid it, you may want to completely wipe
the caulk out of the joint and try again, rather than fudge the job! Needless
to say, the latex will clean up better than the silicone... another good
reason to not overapply the caulk.
As you finish a section, if there are any spots that seem to have too
little caulk, add a little and smooth it in with a finger. Work quickly,
because you only have a couple of minutes before the caulk begins to "skin"
over!!
Plan on doing the whole job at once. Take the phone off the hook, and
put the dog outside. If you stop mid-job, the start-stop seam may not
adhere well... a entry point for water and mildew growth!
Let the caulk dry at least overnight and, for God's sake, take a shower!!
-Naturalhandyman.com
Clogged
Drains
Is your drain starting to run rather slow? Or is it blocked
all together? Well a very simple environmentally friendly way of dealing
with blocked drains or plugholes is as follows.
Pack the drain or plug hole with as much baking soda (bicarbonate of
soda) as possible. Boil up a pint of vinegar. VERY, VERY CAREFULLY pour
the vinegar down the drain, keeping your face well out of the way. There
will be a very violent reaction. Let it all sit there for 2 hours and
then flush through.
By their very nature bathrooms are prone to mildew as the air often becomes
damp. Places where mildew will develop is on the grout between your tiles
and in and around your shower.
Mildew in Your Bathroom
Use an old toothbrush to scrub the mildew from the grout between your
tiles. For more stubborn stains cover them with a paste of scouring powder
that contains bleach, leave for a few hours, scrub and rinse clean. There
are also many commercial products on the market that will kill mildew.
After you use the shower leave the door or curtain open. Wipe down the
walls to dry them. Once they are dry close the shower door or curtain
to allow that to dry also.
To clean a fiberglass shower cubicle dip a damp sponge into some Baking
Soda (Bicarbonate of Soda) and wipe over the surfaces. Rinse and dry.
If you have developed mildew on your shower curtain. Simply soak it in
the bath in a solution of 1 part domestic bleach to 4 parts water. Rinse
well, then if the material allows it, machine wash.
You can also clean mildew, by wiping down with vinegar-soaked cloth.
© Copyright 2002 Tipking.com
Bust
the Dust in an Earth Friendly Way
Feel like being a little more environmentally conscious
this spring? Here are some earth-friendly cleaning recipes to help:
- All Purpose Cleaner: 4 tablespoons baking soda 1 quart warm
water -Dissolve baking soda in the warm water. Apply with a sponge or
spray with a spray bottle. Use to clean and deodorize all kitchen and
bathroom surfaces. Rinse with clear water.
- Drain Cleaner: 1 cup baking soda 1 cup white vinegar Boiling
water -Pour baking soda down the drain. Add white vinegar and cover
the drain if possible. Let stand for 5 minutes, then pour a pot of hot
water down the drain. The vinegar and baking soda will break down fatty
acids into soap and glycerin, and wash the clog down the drain. CAUTION:
Don't use this method if you have used a commercial drain opener that
may still be present in the drain.
- Drain Opener: Use a plunger or a flexible metal snake to loosen
clogged drains. Do not use in the presence of harsh or toxic chemicals.
- Lime and Mineral Deposit Remover: Soak cleaning cloths in vinegar
then apply the cloths to the lime deposits around faucets. Leave the
cloths there for approximately one hour. The deposits will soften and
can be wiped easily.
- Oven Cleaner: Baking soda and very fine steel wool -Sprinkle
water on oven surface. Apply baking soda and rub using a very fine steel
wool. Wipe off with a damp sponge. Rinse well and dry.
- Toilet Bowl Cleaner: Sprinkle baking soda into the bowl, then
pour some vinegar in and scour with a toilet brush. This combination
cleans and deodorizes.
- Furniture Polish: 3 cups olive oil 1 cup vinegar Mix well.
Use a clean, soft cloth to apply to furniture. Disinfectant 1 cup borax
1 gallon hot water CAUTION: Borax is a toxic ingredient. Handle it with
care and store safely.
- allabouthome.com
Summer Heat
One of the most effective means to minimize complaints from
guests during the hot summer months of July and August is to make sure
that your home, condo or cabin has an ample supply of fans as well as
window screens. Because most guests are used to the luxury of air conditioning
when they travel, walking into a stuffy house in mid August often sends
them reaching for the phone. "I can't stay here - its much too hot!" Often,
the complaints are so severe (and with due cause) that the guests must
be relocated to a unit with ventilation provided by window screens or
one with multiple fans. If you would like to make arrangements for either
of these items, please give us a call in Property Management.
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